Saalbach / Hinterglemm (100kms south of Salzburg) is one of the biggest lift-linked resorts in Austria, with 200kms of runs for skiers of all skill levels. It combines attractive Austrian alpine villages with the convenience of French resorts. Leogang lies in a natural basin in the valley parallel to Saalbach and Hinterglemm and is linked into the same ski circus area by a high-speed six-seat chairlift.
Nestled in the narrow throat of the valley, with mountains crowding in as a backdrop, quaint and traffic-free Saalbach forms the epicentre of activity; the custard-yellow steeple of an old church dominates the packed rooftops. Farther up the valley, Hinterglemm has the look and feel of a resort and is less-cosy, while Leogang has its own micro-climate.
There are over 17,000 beds with hotels, guesthouses and pensions in every category. Hotels in Hinterglemm are larger and the village sprawls out over a wider area than Saalbach and Leogang. Saalbach/Hinterglemm has top après-ski and nightlife, although it can get rather rowdy with hordes of young Dutch, Brits, Scandinavians and Germans flooding the bars and clubs. Attractive and traditional mountain restaurants are also in abundance.
The Saalbach/Hinterglemm-Leogang ski resorts have wide, parallel ridges of open snowfields, amounting to 200kms and 60 pisted runs. Slopes here are suitable for all levels with an emphasis on intermediate skiers, while expert skiers run off-piste. There are 55 lifts, including seven gondolas, 14 chairlifts and 34 draglifts, with a capacity of over 83,000 skiers per hour.
Nearby Zell am See has deep glacial waters that reflect this attractive town against the snow-capped Tauern peaks and alpine meadows. Several medieval towers, a Romanesque parish church, and a 16th century château add atmosphere. A cogwheel railway, the Gletscherbahn, runs from the village of Kaprun along a glacier bed to the peak of the Kitzsteinhorn (3,203m) and gives unrivalled views.
The ski season runs from late November (snow permitting) to late April, with the cheapest rates two weeks before Christmas, mid-January and late March/April. The most practical way to reach Saalbach / Hinterglemm-Leogang is to fly to Salzburg or Munich, take the train to Zell am See, and then the bus to the resorts. Leogang has a rail link with Zell am See.